Mykonos (in Greece) has a reputation for packed beach clubs and late nights. In July and August, that reputation is well earned.
Come in June or September, though, and the island feels different. The sea is warm, the light is golden, the crowds thin out, and you can actually find a table at sunset in Little Venice. Here is how to plan a relaxed week on the island outside peak season.
The shoulder months on Mykonos run roughly from May to June and from September to early October.
June brings long days and a sea that is starting to warm up. September is many travellers’ favourite, with the warmest water of the year and a calmer pace once the summer crowds leave. By late October, many hotels, restaurants and beach clubs close for the winter, so check opening dates if you are travelling late in the season.
The island is also known for the meltemi, a strong northerly wind that blows mostly in high summer. It can still appear in the shoulder months. On windy days, head for the beaches on the sheltered south coast.
Where you base yourself shapes your whole trip.
Mykonos Town (Chora) puts you in the middle of everything. You can walk to restaurants, bars and the old port, but expect some noise at night and very little space.
Beach areas on the south coast, such as Ornos and Platis Gialos, are convenient for swimming and have plenty of places to eat. They suit travellers who want to be by the water without driving.
Hillside villas are the best choice for families, groups and anyone who values privacy. Many sit a few kilometres outside town, with sea views and their own pools. Companies such as Equity Residences rent private-pool villas in this setting, a short drive from Mykonos Town, which gives you a quiet base with town and beaches close by.
If you choose a villa, plan to hire a car or quad bike, or budget for taxis. Taxis are limited on the island and can be hard to find at busy times, so book transfers ahead where you can.
Mykonos has dozens of beaches, and each has its own character.
In the shoulder season, you will often find space on the sand without booking a sunbed days in advance.
Spend at least one evening wandering Chora. Walk the narrow lanes around Matoyianni Street, visit the whitewashed Paraportiani church, and watch the sun go down from Little Venice or the windmills of Kato Mili.
Take a half-day trip to Delos, the small island next door and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. Boats leave from the old port in Mykonos Town. There are no overnight stays on Delos, and shade is limited, so bring water, a hat and good walking shoes.
For a slower afternoon, drive inland to Ano Mera, a traditional village with a central square and the Monastery of Panagia Tourliani. Then head to the Armenistis lighthouse on the north-west coast for wide views of the Aegean.
Mykonos has some very expensive restaurants, but you do not need to spend a fortune to eat well.
Look out for local specialities such as Briam - grilled vegetables and fresh fruit. Simple Greek vegan salads are everywhere, and they taste even better by the sea!
If you are staying in a villa, a trip to a local bakery and market makes for easy breakfasts on the terrace. Many villas have fully equipped kitchens, so a home-cooked dinner one night can balance out a splurge the next.
Public buses connect Mykonos Town with the main beaches and are the cheapest way to get around. Small boats also run between some of the south coast beaches in season.
For more freedom, hire a car. Roads are narrow and winding, and parking in town is tight, so a small car is best. Always drive carefully, especially at night.
Mykonos does not have to mean crowds and queues. Visit in June or September, stay somewhere with a little space, and you will see the side of the island that keeps people coming back.
When to Go, and What to Expect
The shoulder months on Mykonos run roughly from May to June and from September to early October.
June brings long days and a sea that is starting to warm up. September is many travellers’ favourite, with the warmest water of the year and a calmer pace once the summer crowds leave. By late October, many hotels, restaurants and beach clubs close for the winter, so check opening dates if you are travelling late in the season.
The island is also known for the meltemi, a strong northerly wind that blows mostly in high summer. It can still appear in the shoulder months. On windy days, head for the beaches on the sheltered south coast.
Where to Stay: Town, Beach or Hillside Villa
Where you base yourself shapes your whole trip.
Mykonos Town (Chora) puts you in the middle of everything. You can walk to restaurants, bars and the old port, but expect some noise at night and very little space.
Beach areas on the south coast, such as Ornos and Platis Gialos, are convenient for swimming and have plenty of places to eat. They suit travellers who want to be by the water without driving.
Hillside villas are the best choice for families, groups and anyone who values privacy. Many sit a few kilometres outside town, with sea views and their own pools. Companies such as Equity Residences rent private-pool villas in this setting, a short drive from Mykonos Town, which gives you a quiet base with town and beaches close by.
If you choose a villa, plan to hire a car or quad bike, or budget for taxis. Taxis are limited on the island and can be hard to find at busy times, so book transfers ahead where you can.
Where to Swim
Mykonos has dozens of beaches, and each has its own character.
- Psarou and Platis Gialos are sheltered southern beaches with clear water, sunbeds and restaurants.
- Ornos is close to town and good for families, with calm, shallow water.
- Agios Sostis, on the north coast, is one of the island’s most natural beaches, with no big development. It is beautiful on calm days but exposed when the wind picks up.
- Fokos, also in the north, is quiet and rugged, with a well-known taverna nearby.
In the shoulder season, you will often find space on the sand without booking a sunbed days in advance.
What to See Beyond the Beach
Spend at least one evening wandering Chora. Walk the narrow lanes around Matoyianni Street, visit the whitewashed Paraportiani church, and watch the sun go down from Little Venice or the windmills of Kato Mili.
Take a half-day trip to Delos, the small island next door and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. Boats leave from the old port in Mykonos Town. There are no overnight stays on Delos, and shade is limited, so bring water, a hat and good walking shoes.
For a slower afternoon, drive inland to Ano Mera, a traditional village with a central square and the Monastery of Panagia Tourliani. Then head to the Armenistis lighthouse on the north-west coast for wide views of the Aegean.
What to Eat While You Are There
Mykonos has some very expensive restaurants, but you do not need to spend a fortune to eat well.
Look out for local specialities such as Briam - grilled vegetables and fresh fruit. Simple Greek vegan salads are everywhere, and they taste even better by the sea!
If you are staying in a villa, a trip to a local bakery and market makes for easy breakfasts on the terrace. Many villas have fully equipped kitchens, so a home-cooked dinner one night can balance out a splurge the next.
Getting Around
Public buses connect Mykonos Town with the main beaches and are the cheapest way to get around. Small boats also run between some of the south coast beaches in season.
For more freedom, hire a car. Roads are narrow and winding, and parking in town is tight, so a small car is best. Always drive carefully, especially at night.
Plan Your Shoulder Season Escape
Mykonos does not have to mean crowds and queues. Visit in June or September, stay somewhere with a little space, and you will see the side of the island that keeps people coming back.
Book your flights and ferries early, choose a base that suits your group, and leave plenty of time for long lunches and sunsets! (Photo credit: Xavier Messina)
